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Rolex | The new Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II


An essential reference for travellers, this timepiece features two major innovations: a left-side winding crown and a two-tone green and black bezel disc, a new combination of colours for the watch Maison. This timepiece also meets the demanding criteria of the Superlative Chronometer certification.

Rolex has unveiled a novel, unexpected version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. On this watch, the crown and crown guard are on the left side of the watch case. This required changing the precision testing process for some of the final controls carried out as part of the Superlative Chronometer certification. The date aperture and the Cyclops lens have also moved and appear at 9 o’clock.

Made from Oystersteel and fitted with an Oyster bracelet, this watch features a two-colour monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in green and black ceramic – a colour pairing never before seen on the model. This original timepiece highlights the GMT-Master II’s readiness for discovery and reinterpretation.

The new version of the GMT-Master II is equipped with calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the hours, minutes, seconds and date, as well as an additional time zone in 24-hour format.

Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

One instrument, several time zones
Designed as a navigation aid for professionals criss-crossing the globe, over time the GMT-Master became the watch of choice for travellers. It has a unique and instantly recognisable design with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert, which has been made available in various dual-colour combinations – the lower half symbolising daytime and the upper signalling night-time – as well as in single colour versions. The GMT-Master, a true “tool watch”, evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex unveiled the GMT-Master II, with a movement that allowed the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands.

With traditional hour, minute and seconds hands, a triangle-tipped 24-hour hand, and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, the GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and the reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date is synchronised with the local time.

High-technology ceramic
Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics for creating monobloc bezels and bezel inserts. Not only are these materials virtually scratchproof, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. Rolex has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components.

On the new version of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel can also be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.

The Oyster case, symbol of waterproofness
A paragon of robustness and reliability, the 40mm Oyster case of the new GMT-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). Its middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particularly corrosion-resistant alloy. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which is fitted with a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the watch’s movement.

Perpetual calibre 3285
The new version of the GMT-Master II is equipped with calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and introduced on the model the same year. At the forefront of watchmaking technology, this self-winding mechanical movement led to the filing of several patents, and offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with an optimised blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. This hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance.

Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3285 extends to approximately 70 hours.

Oyster bracelet and Oysterlock safety clasp
The new version of the GMT-Master II is fitted with an Oyster bracelet. Developed at the end of the 1930s, this three-piece link bracelet remains the most universal bracelet in the Oyster Perpetual collection and is known for its robustness.

The Oyster bracelet on this new version features the Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It is also equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case.

Superlative Chronometer certification
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and selfwinding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of -2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.

The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolised by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee. 

Published on 2022-04-26